Suggested Guidelines presented by Mike Savage
A double of a weak 1NT is typically made
with a balanced hand with at least full opening values (I suggest 14/15
HCP or more) but also might have a long, good suit and some entries. Partner
will convert (by passing) with around 8/9 or more balanced or semi-balanced
HCP. But what if partner
isn’t balanced
and has one long suit or a two-suiter and doesn’t want to sit for 1NT
doubled?
Some partnerships play Cappelletti/Hamilton and some play “Systems On” (as if partner had opened 1NT). Here’s a more natural, perhaps better approach that is hopefully simple-to-remember. Two of any suit is to play, three of any suit is natural and invitational and 2NT is artificial, showing an invitational or better 2-suiter (a few pairs play a jump to three of a suit and 2NT as game forcing) with advances over the semi-forced 3C relay being the same as when you use Cappelletti/Hamilton. This natural approach allows you to play 2C and 2D while other more artificial methods do not.
2C, 2D, 2H & 2S = To play.
3C, 3D, 3H & 3S = Invitational. Raise to 4H/4S
w/good support or good values & the
trump A or K.
2NT = Shows a two-suited invitational or
better hand and asks partner to bid 3C.
3C = Semi-automatic. Denies a one-suited hand with a long, very good major and could
have a long club suit - or a good long diamond suit with at least one three-card major.
Responses: (same structure as Cappelletti/Hamilton at the two-level)
3D = Five-five or better in the majors with invitational or better values.
3H = Five-card or longer heart suit, an undisclosed minor & is invitational.
3S = Five-card or longer spade suit, an undisclosed minor & is invitational.
3NT = Five-five or better in the minors with invitational or better values.
3D = Usually a six-card diamond suit and tends to deny a three-card major.
3H = A very good usually six-card or longer heart suit.
3S = A very good usually six-card or longer spade suit.
3NT = Usually a very good six-card club suit with no more than 2-2 in the majors.
Don’t be too concerned about finding 4-4 major fits as if your side has balanced or even semi-balanced hands and the balance of power, you’ll usually prefer to defend 1NT doubled. If opener or responder run (and most weak notrump partnerships have run-outs in place) that's different. If a pass after partner’s double is forcing and demands redouble or if a redouble is for take-out, you can simply ignore their interference with shapely hands and still use the same structure shown above.
With a balanced hand and values to defeat 1NT doubled, pass an alerted forcing pass or redouble and if they run to a suit, play double them or buy it thru 2H. Then if partner can’t double that suit and doesn’t bid his own long suit, he will pass – forcing you to either bid your lowest suit or double them.
If they immediately run to a one or two-suited bid at the two-level, my suggestion is to still play double them or buy it thru 2H but with an immediate double by advancer being Negative (mostly take-out), showing cards and usually a doubleton in their suit. The doubler can convert by passing or bidding a suit with expectations of having a fit. Later doubles by either defender will be for penalty in the immediate seat but would be reopening/card-showing doubles in the pass-out seat. So if it goes 1NT-Double 2-of-a-suit pass pass, doubling again by the original doubler (instead of bidding a suit) is mostly for take-out, and could have just a doubleton in their suit. Advancer could leave the double in with honor 3rd or longer in their suit and enough values - or decide to bid a suit of his own instead.